Originally published as a Hyphen magazine web exclusive
Nov. 13, 2009
The menswear designer talks to us about her line, working at a co-op, and what a well-dressed Mr. Hyphen would wear.
To the male college graduates still shuffling to work in cargo shorts and polo shirts: Estrella Tadeo feels for you.
“There’s a huge gap from skater boy to professional,” says Tadeo. “When [skater boy] grows up, he can’t afford the YSL, but still wants to look cool.”
The menswear designer and co-founder of The Mission Statement, a co-op boutique, laments the lack of options available for guys. While she loves designing for both men and women, she sees a higher need for more menswear options, since women typically have more to choose from in a department store. For guys, there aren’t too many different looks to work with between Frat Boy and Wall Street.
“You don’t necessarily want to look stuffy but you want to look polished and hip,” she says. “Especially with younger men becoming professionals at a younger age, there’s a middle market there.”
Tadeo caters to that middle market with her tailored, structural designs. Asked if there are often clueless guys who walk into her store looking for fashion advice, she quickly responds, “Oh yeah. They need help.” The most important detail a guy should look out for? Fit.
“Fit is a huge thing for me,” she says. “Everything should have a good fit. I’m not so into the baggy fit for men. I like English tailoring — not tight but fitted. […] I strive for more timeless pieces, more than anything else. It’s not necessarily a trendy thing.”
While she sounds like a style pro, a career in fashion design wasn’t always the dream for Tadeo. Working in the garment industry since 1991, she learned the ropes early on, taking a full-time job just out of high school as a production assistant for a San Francisco line.
“As a young girl, I didn’t really want to be a fashion designer,” says Tadeo. “I fell into it in a way. I learned about garment construction on the job.”
Through the years she went on to work on a line with her sister, later moving to New York and then ultimately, back to San Francisco. While the fashion scene there isn’t as abundant as New York’s, Tadeo appreciates the camaraderie of San Francisco Bay Area designers, leading her to co-found a designer co-op a year and a half ago. The Mission Statement is now home to the work of eight designers, featuring a well-rounded array of clothes, silk screen designs, jewelry and cosmetics. Tadeo says she loves the variety and feeling of community in her little family of designers.
“I would say that the one great thing about the design community here is that it’s tightly knit and everybody wants to help everybody else out,” says Tadeo. “Everyone is just happy that there’s this camaraderie. I’m excited when I see younger [designers] just starting out, I’m excited to help them until they can get to the point where they can manage themselves.”
And what would Tadeo consider a fashionable Mr. Hyphen?
“Structure and tailoring are big factors. I love variables — a polished, well-fitted jacket, but paired with colors and accessories. My ideal person would have on a well-groomed, fitted [outfit],” she says, pausing to add, “I like scarves.”
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Mr. Hyphen 2009 will take place on Saturday, November 14 at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center.
